Scottish National Portrait Gallery: Edinburgh Visitor Guide

One of Edinburgh’s most striking buildings, the Scottish National Portrait Gallery is truly magical on the inside. Soaring ceilings, intricate murals and a grand central hall that feels like stepping into a set from Harry Potter, this Gothic Revival masterpiece is home to a vast collection of portraits celebrating Scotland’s most iconic figures. Best of all, it’s completely free!

Your Guide to Visiting the Scottish National Portrait Gallery in Edinburgh

Visiting the Scottish National Portrait Gallery is a must-do on any Scotland itinerary. And because it’s completely free to visit, this makes it perfect for everyone, no matter your budget. It’s also one of the prettiest museums in Scotland!

Located right in the centre of Edinburgh, within walking distance of Edinburgh Waverley train station, the Scottish National Portrait Gallery contains Scotland’s national collection of portraits, and also features the National Photography Collection.

But it’s not only the portraits. The Portrait Gallery building itself absolutely steals the show! Prepare to be absolutely mesmerised as you walk into the Great Hall, an incredible work of art in itself.

You’ll be surrounded on all sides by an enormous fresco, featuring prominent figures from Scottish history. Above, the constellations of the zodiac decorate the painted ceiling.

After walking through different chapters of Scottish art and history, you can enjoy tea in the light and airy Portrait Cafe.

History of the Scottish National Portrait Gallery in Edinburgh

Opened in 1889, the Scottish National Portrait Gallery in Edinburgh was actually the very first gallery in the entire world purpose-built to showcase portraits.

It started off as a home for Scotland’s national collection of portraits. Many of the works had originally been gathered by David Stuart, 11th Earl of Buchan. The gallery made these important artworks accessible to the public for the very first time.

The Scottish National Portrait Gallery’s striking neo-gothic red sandstone building was designed by the renowned architect Sir Robert Rowand Anderson, and paid for by the local newspaper magnate and philanthropist, John Ritchie Findlay.

Where is the Scottish National Portrait Gallery Located?

The Scottish National Portrait Gallery sits in Edinburgh’s New Town at 1 Queen Street, just a few minutes’ walk from Princes Street and Edinburgh Waverley Station.

This central location makes it easy to combine a gallery visit with other nearby attractions such as Calton Hill, the Scott Monument or a stroll through the Princes Street Gardens.

The Edinburgh New Town itself is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, known for its elegant Georgian architecture and wide, orderly streets. The New Town is the cultural and commercial heart of the city, and home to lots of high-end shops, historic buildings, art galleries and restaurants.

It’s also an easy walk from the Old Town and major transport links like Edinburgh Waverley Station and the St Andrew Square tram stop.

Edinburgh is Scotland’s capital city and is easy to get to from other parts of the United Kingdom. It has its own airport and is well-connected by rail and bus.

Why is the Main Hall at the Scottish National Portrait Gallery so Special?

Before you even get to the portraits, you’ll be blown away by the Scottish National Portrait Gallery’s Great Hall. This magnificent entryway spans two floors, with a balcony overlooking it from above and a soaring ceiling that adds to the sense of grandeur.

Rich in detail and symbolism, this grand central room is the heart of the Scottish National Portrait Gallery, and was designed to introduce visitors to Scotland’s national story.

You can view the hall from both the ground floor and the mezzanine level. On the lower floor, you’ll find stained glass windows, marble busts, statues and portraits that celebrate key figures from Scotland’s past. Every corner has something to admire.

Upstairs on the balcony you can get a close-up view of the colourful processional frieze. You’ll also see a series of frescoes portraying dramatic moments from Scottish history, set beneath the archways.

The Celestial Ceiling at the Scottish National Portrait Gallery

Don’t forget to look up. The ceiling is painted with a celestial map, featuring gold stars and constellations that add to the room’s magical feel. Lanterns suspended from long chains cast a soft glow across the space, creating a sense of wonder.

I found it really hard to stop taking photos as there are so many beautiful details!

The Frieze at the Scottish National Portrait Gallery

On the first-floor balcony, a frieze showcases a grand procession of 155 iconic figures from Scottish history.

Created by artist William Hole, this visual timeline runs in reverse chronological order, beginning with writer Thomas Carlyle (1795–1881), who was the most recent figure included when the frieze was created around 1897–98.

See if you can spot well-known figures like Robert the Bruce (1274–1329), James Watt (1736–1819), Adam Smith (1723–1790), Sir Walter Scott (1771–1832) and David Livingstone (1813–1873).

The earliest figure in the frieze is a symbolic representation of a Stone Age man, highlighting Scotland’s ancient human history before any recorded names appear. He comes even earlier in the timeline than Saint Ninian (360-432 AD), marking the beginning of Scotland’s story in the procession.

Hole also created a series of striking murals on the first floor, illustrating key moments from Scotland’s past. These artworks are woven into the very structure of the building, alongside a tribute to John Ritchie Findlay, the gallery’s founder. His portrait, on the ground floor, was the first modern commission for the collection and remains a central piece of its heritage.

What to See at the Scottish National Portrait Gallery?

The Scottish National Portrait Gallery features a blend of classical and contemporary portraiture, offering a captivating journey through Scotland’s rich (and often tumultuous) history and culture.

Spread across three floors, the gallery’s exhibition rooms showcase portraits from the 1300s right through to the present day.

You’ll find everything from medieval and early modern works to portraits from the Victorian era and 20th-century icons. One gallery is dedicated entirely to portraits from the year 2000 onwards, highlighting influential figures from recent decades.

Historical Figures Featured at the Scottish National Portrait Gallery

If you’re interested in historical leaders, cultural pioneers or modern-day change-makers, the Scottish National Portrait Gallery collection offers a compelling insight into Scotland’s evolving identity.

Fans of Scottish history will enjoy visiting portraits of famous figures such as Mary Queen of Scots, James VI and Charles Edward Stuart (Bonnie Prince Charlie).

Later famous Scots such as the poet Robert Burns and the novelist Robert Louis Stevenson are also featured.

There’s also a beautiful oil painting of Queen Victoria prominently displayed in the first-floor gallery featuring 19th-century works. This portrait was painted by the artist Franz Xaver Winterhalter, in the same year that Queen Victoria married Prince Albert.

Plan Your Visit to the Scottish National Portrait Gallery

The Scottish National Portrait Gallery is conveniently situated in central Edinburgh on Queen Street, close to St Andrew’s Square. It is just a five-minute walk from popular landmarks such as the Scott Monument, Princes Street and the Ross Fountain in Princes Street Gardens.

Walking is the easiest way to reach the gallery, as nearby off-street parking is very limited. If you prefer public transport, the gallery is located right next to the Edinburgh bus station and only a two-minute walk from Edinburgh Waverley railway station.

The full address is 1 Queen Street, Edinburgh, EH2 1JD. For easy navigation, you can find the location on Google Maps here.

Café Portrait: Dining at the Scottish National Portrait Gallery

On the ground floor of the Scottish National Portrait Gallery, there’s a really good cafe called Café Portrait, open daily from 10am to 4.30pm. It’s in a huge, bright and airy room with gothic windows and vaulted ceilings, perfect for relaxing after visiting the exhibitions.

The menu includes homemade soups, artisan sandwiches, fresh salads and delicious cakes, along with teas, coffees and cold drinks.

Afternoon tea is served daily from 2.30pm and must be booked at least 24 hours in advance. For a more leisurely experience, you can dine in The Nook, a cosy table-service area.

Scottish National Portrait Gallery Tickets and Opening Hours

The Scottish National Portrait Gallery is part of the National Galleries of Scotland:

There is no need to pre-book tickets for the main gallery rooms. You can arrive whenever you like during opening hours.

There are sometimes some special exhibitions that do require booking. You’ll need to buy tickets if you wish to visit these.

Need to Know

Don’t confuse the Scottish National Portrait Gallery with the Scottish National Gallery. It’s very easy to get the two mixed up, but they’re actually two completely separate galleries located in different places!

Free Edinburgh Walking Tours

If you’re visiting Edinburgh and keen to learn more about Scottish history, then I can recommend booking a free Edinburgh walking tour with GuruWalk.

The tour itself is free-of-charge to book, and then you can tip the guide directly for their time and expertise.

→ Book your free Edinburgh walking tour here!

Plan Your Trip to Scotland: Useful Travel Resources

Planning your next trip? These are my travel tools I use to book fast, travel safer and stress less.

✈️ Pro tip: Set these up before your trip so you can hit the ground running.

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